If you’re new to sewing and reading patterns, you may be wondering, what is fabric grain? Don’t worry, it’s not as scary as it seams.
This article will help you unpick the confusion and advance on your sewing journey by understanding how fabric grain can affect your sewing projects. We will also help you understand what terms like lengthwise grain, crosswise grain and bias grain all mean.
What is Fabric Grain and Why is it Important?
So, what is fabric grain, why is it important and why can't you just cut out your pattern pieces from anywhere in your fabric? Let us answer this for you:
In short, fabric grain is a term that refers to the direction of the warp and weft threads used in the weaving process of fabric. This means that the direction of the grain line running through your pattern piece will directly affect how your finished garment will hang. For example, waistbands are typically cut on the lengthwise grain to ensure they are stable and do not stretch. But for pants, these would be cut on the cross grain horizontally, so you have some give around the width of the pants.
Understanding Grain Lines
The selvage is the tightly woven fabric found on the edge of fabrics. It is there to prevent the edges of the fabric from unraveling or fraying. Our tip? Don’t use this in your projects, it behaves differently to the rest of the fabric and can cause puckered and distorted seams.
Now that we know “what is fabric grain” let’s get into all of the different types:
Lengthwise grain: This can also be referred to as the straight grain. This grain is the direction of the warp threads in the fabric that run parallel to the selvages. They are the long grains of thread that run the entire length of the fabric. This grain is stronger than the cross grain and is less likely to stretch out of shape. This is the most common form of grain to follow when making garments.
Cross Grain: This grain runs in the direction of the weft threads, which run perpendicular to the selvedge edges. They are shorter threads that run back and forth. This grain is not as dense as the lengthwise grain and therefore has some give due to the over and under weaving.
Bias Grain: Bias grain runs on a 45-degree angle from the straight grain. A bias-cut piece of fabric creates a lovely softness and a drape that is able to follow a curve.
Tip: If cutting any item on the bias it is recommended to let it hang in the desired direction for about 24 hours, especially before hemming to allow for any stretching that may occur on this grain line.
Finding the Grain
To find your grain lines in a fabric, pull the fabric in different directions, The direction with little to no stretch is the lengthwise grain. Finding the grain before cutting will allow you to ensure your patterns fit and drape correctly with puckers to be less likely.
Knit Fabrics
Grain lines work differently on knit fabric, as this type of fabric is created differently. The grain line in a knit fabric is determined by “wales” that form vertically in a plain knit. A wale is a vertical directional element formed in the knitting process when yarn loops are connected to each other. When using a knit fabric it is best to line up your pattern pieces to the wales in the fabric rather than the selvage like you would with a woven fabric.
How Knowing “What is Fabric Grain” Will Help Your Projects
Now that you know, “what is fabric grain” you can understand how the grain line of fabrics will significantly impact the outcome of your garments. With this new information, you can now elevate your garments and sewing skill level.
Always remember: cut your patterns following the desired grain line to reduce puckering, and unwanted results.
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